Monday, February 22, 2010

HTC Hero Android Market Enabler Reboot

setprop gsm.sim.operator.numeric 310260
setprop gsm.operator.numeric 310260
ps | grep vending
ps | grep vending | tr -s ‘ ‘ | cut -d ‘ ‘ -f2
kill $(ps | grep vending | tr -s ‘ ‘ | cut -d ‘ ‘ -f2)
rm -rf /data/data/*
getprop gsm.sim.operator.numeric 310260
getprop gsm.operator.numeric 310260

Monday, February 8, 2010

Basic info for modern digital single lens reflex review

Both of this article’s opening pictures hint at mystery. The dark of night and a camera’s black box technology keep secrets from the average passerby.

The modern digital single-lens reflex is a black box, both literally and figuratively.

Learning how to control and sometimes ignore the camera’s array of buttons, dials, menus, and readouts is the key to mastering the camera and creating great images. This is just as true today as in the days of film. In this article, we explore how the camera works, its major systems, and see how to take control over the camera-computer and become creative photographers rather than passive picture-takers.

The fundamental operation of a camera hasn’t changed from the very first pinhole model to today’s most modern digital single-lens reflex. The camera is a dark box that totally controls how light falls onto a light-sensitive surface (film or sensor), which records the image projected onto it.

Creative photographers play the way the light falls on the sensor plate, the same way a musician plays an instrument. The first step in mastery is in understanding how the process works. Here is the no-math, no-physics, version. Each digital single-lens reflex camera has its own particular set of features and controls; however, they all share the same basic functions and construction, and they all make use of basic photographic technology to make pictures. That’s what we’ll explore in this article, to make sure we all understand the primary components, their functions, and some basic photographic concepts for later discussions.

We’ll save the technical details for later, when you can see your own results, as well as read about the concepts. Don’t worry if these product pictures don’t look exactly the same as your brand or model, or if the buttons are in different locations, or if your manual uses slightly different terms. The fundamental controls are identical, and so is the basic operation.

Digital single-lens reflex camera.

This image shows the light path as it travels through your camera, depicting the major controls and components. The process is virtually the same for all digital single-lens reflex cameras (and film SLRs for that matter). Light enters at the front of the lens and travels into the body of the digital single-lens reflex. The optical design of the lens causes an image of the scene being photographed to form, in focus, at a specific point called the focal plane.

Digital single-lens reflex camera.

Most of the time, light is reflected by a mirror into a pentaprism. It flips the image over and around for the preview; otherwise, the image would appear upside down and backwards. Some less-expensive cameras use a set of mirrors instead of a pentaprism to cut cost at the expense of preview quality and brightness.

The mirror quickly moves up and out of the way when you push the shutter button to take a picture. Then the shutter opens to let the light pass through and form the image on the sensor. Next, the data is recorded in the camera’s memory and saved as a unique file that can be edited and printed.

Just like your eye, the sensor has a limited range of sensitivity. There is an ideal intensity of illumination that will produce the best picture.

Too dark, and the sensor can’t form the image just as you can’t make out detail unless there is light; too much light and it will be temporarily “blinded,” just as your eyes are when you emerge into bright sun from a movie theater.

The Sensor and the Shutter

There are two factors that control how much light its intensity falls onto the sensor: the brightness and the time duration of the light allowed to fall on it. The intensity is controlled by the diaphragm. This is an adjustable circular collar that can partially close or open as the picture is taken. The amount of time the sensor is exposed to the light is managed by a curtain, called the shutter. Canon cameras are the best.

This slides out of the way for a precisely-controlled amount of time. The combination of the intensity and duration is called the exposure.

The importance of ISO number for DSLR cameras

Customizing the Basic Shooting Settings

The suggestions in this article are basic settings and safe-handling procedures that apply to virtually any digital single-lens reflex, so they won’t be detailed step by-step instructions on how to adjust menus or use buttons. Your camera’s manual is the source for specifics about where particular settings are. The organization of the settings varies from camera to camera.

The basic image-sensor and file-capture options are fundamental to picture quality, so the choices you make here have a direct bearing on every picture you take. It’s good that these options are among the easiest to understand and use correctly. As with all options, there are trade-offs to consider. The following list is in a functional order, and may or may not match that for the one in your camera.

A Simple Menu Choice RAW or Processed?

Every time you take a picture, your camera creates a data file containing the raw unprocessed data from the scan. Most digital single-lens reflexs give you the option of saving that file (called a RAW file) or letting it process the data into a standard image format like a JPEG and erasing the original data. You may also have the option of saving both the RAW file and a processed version.

RAW files can be large, about 12MB for a 12- megapixel camera. That’s just under 300 images on a 8GB memory card. The same card in the same camera can hold 2,800 high-quality JPEGs capable of making a good 8x10-inch print. Even so, I still shoot almost all of my pictures in RAW format. The reason is simple.

I like to do my own processing. The RAW file has the most quality and editing potential that that image will ever have. Not only that, RAW lets you go back and modify several critical shooting options during editing with no loss in quality.

You can’t do that with JPEG files that are automatically processed in the camera. The resulting file modifications and compression removes data and editing options. For now I suggest you set your camera to RAW unless you really need to save storage space.

If you do choose to capture in JPEG format, you must also choose an image-quality setting. The options will vary depending on the size of your sensor, so you should check your camera’s manual for details. It’s generally best to use the highest quality available, unless you have limited in-camera storage space. You never know when a wonderful picture opportunity will present itself.

ISO Sensitivity Less Is More

One of the major advantages of digital over film photography is the ability to adjust the sensor’s sensitivity to light at any time, even for just one picture. The lighting wasn’t very bright, and the little cheerleader was moving fast. I needed a fast shutter speed to freeze her motion, so I used almost the fastest ISO setting my camera offered. The ISO number is based on how much light energy is needed to take a picture.

We’ll cover the details more thoroughly in the next article. Right now it suffices to say is that the ISO number indicates the sensor’s sensitivity to light. The higher the number, the less light is needed to create a workable image.

That means we can take pictures under dimming lighting conditions. Doubling the ISO number from its current value doubles the sensitivity of the sensor; cutting it in half reduces the light-gathering ability by half. A shift from 100 to 200 doubles the speed, and to double it again, you raise it from 200 to 400. Most digital single-lens reflexs have a base number of 100 or 200 ISO, and can go up to 3200 or more.

There is a trade-off between quality and speed. Pushing up the ISO is asking more from the technology. When we boost the number, the sensor develops signal noise (usually just called noise). It manifests as little colored dots that degrade the fine detail in the image, and is worse in low-contrast areas having even color and tone.

I tend to leave my ISO number as low as possible unless the lighting conditions demand raising it, and suggest you do the same. The actual working numbers for the lowest and highest ISO settings vary from camera to camera.

Friday, February 5, 2010

Google map离线版(已测试可用)G1/G2/G3均可使用

文字是多了点,但是绝对简单,不成功你就是猪: F' X; m7 }8 u' @# ]
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3。导入在SD卡在简单点,直接装好RMAPS,用WIFI下载, 打开软件会生成一个MAP的位子,地图会自己下载进这,前提是你要用RMAP,建议用WIFI,否则流量很大。 以后每次登入不需要下载,可以尝试吧WIFI和GPRS关掉,地图还在 。
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' G2 D' g/ O& B5 [$ [4 U& |以 下内容是来自 安卓网的朋友的 但是写的不够详细 问题也比较多,此篇文章只是做个补助,进一步的简化问题,让所有的andriod们用上离线版的google map,绝对可用,地图客更新。
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- x3 K' |- f4 t% t废话不多,我们开始主题
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" q+ x# s; K# p+ y7 ?# G1.下载里 面的Rmpas和Trebuddy Atlas Creator,把Rmaps安装到Gphone里面,Trebuddy Atlas Creator解压到你的电脑里。4 P1 Q0 W( j# ?! Z! D

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2.下载, 然后解压到 windows\system32\ 下(我也解压到了Trebuddy Atlas Creator目录下了,所以,提示缺少SQLite的同学也试试放到Trebuddy Atlas Creator目录下)+ c/ r2 A" g4 }
这里需要注意,Trebuddy Atlas Creator 必须解压到windows/system32里 必须在此处运行
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3.运行Trebuddy Atlas Creator 里的 start.cmd 然后它会载入那个jar文件运行。如果报错,别管他什么错误,点击这个下载 java环境,安装完成后继续
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! ]) M2 K7 K% ~2 O# S4.运行后地图出来了吧?用鼠标选择框起你需要下载的地方(不要选太大了哦,等会下载会很慢 的),我是上海这边的,就把上海的市区基本都框进去了。
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5.在左上角的map source里面,选择源为Google Map,Zoom Level选择你要下载的层次,就是你放大和缩小的级别(可以自己试着预览一下,一般10-17已经足够了)2 I5 ?' T+ g& u. h% }
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6.在Atlas Content里面,点一下 Add selection,再在 Atlas Setting 选 Bigplanet SQLite/ A+ F {0 x$ u& u3 U
点击add seletection前 必须 用你的鼠标 选中你需要下载的区域- X. W: ]8 f( C- Z) Z; q. c

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7.点击Create atlas 以后,就开始下载地图了。
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7 `; x1 m0 F1 b5 r5 K8.,把Trebuddy Atlas Creator目录下的atlases里会有一个BigPlanet_maps.sqlitedb,把它放到你的SD卡的RMaps/maps/ 里吧。
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a6 x) R" j ]5 R9.安装好Rmaps.apk,然后打开GPS,wifi(不是说离线的吗?别急!),运行Rmaps。软件一开始会下载某些图,并且对你进行定位。 你选 Menu -> 更多 -> 设定-> 预定义地图, 把里面的全部都不勾上,这样它就不会网络下图了。再在Menu -> 更多 -> 设定->使用自定义地图,选择你SD 卡里面的那个Bigplanet SQLite DBt SQLite DB吧。( G) _, f* p9 I8 O& x
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10.再关掉wifi试试重新定位吧,找到你的位置以后,地图文 件就load出来了。就算不用GPS定位,你之前开wifi定位好了,也就不至于要看很多灰白的xx了....
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2 S, ?: R ]+ T C% s* ]# qOK 绝对可用
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2 h- }# L' B5 z5 ?2 E2 q2 |问题:完全按楼主说 的做了 全部解压缩到system32目下 自动运行的 也安装了JAVA 可是到了下载这部还是出现错误没有SQL
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2 m3 q% h( Z& o答:解压到 windows/system32下
) ^. M! z1 H5 H! E打开start.cmd那个软件9 U) V/ w6 X6 w0 ^, {& J" [
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. F* z0 T r/ d缺少SQL 你先装java环境
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9 Q" p+ J8 e- d3 K4 D问题:java环境我已经装了2 p, g# D0 @7 G- ]1 ~+ ]! Y4 ?2 e6 a& p& R$ c+ @9 e# h9 C g
运行start.cmd后出现“could not read file settings.xml program will exit”+ `) p% C9 z4 L. P% s( i! k! @& \
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3 z+ m3 B/ e. ~& e. A9 h8 W答:下载解 压的东西没找到,必须放在windows/system32下,最好重启下,建议去官网上下java3 M1 b4 z- y+ _3 L+ R# {, V- }+ F
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( {1 l( `2 W3 D, `3 t, d问题:unable ti finde the SQL
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问题:楼主个沙子 ,自己傻还说别人没装 上是自己问题,这教程 有问题,大家 可以 去这边看# V( ]8 M0 m/ F g6 O

& m& v5 x" A9 `- h' |8 B/ S: K答: 你大爷的,哥只是提供个简版的,别没事找茬
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9 q0 u r, X0 ~3 I问题:按照楼主所说,下载的1.6版, 但每次生成地图时都提示“sqlite not available”
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答:JAVA 环境问题 卸载下下个6.0JAVA环境
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答:不需要 全放在windows/system32下就可以( q1 S8 z7 k ]6 z

3 j/ o- \: Y5 b6 D+ B1 a问题:搞了半天终于弄出来 了,我来提示大家一下。javasqlite-20090430-win32解压缩后 把最里面的两个文件夹的里面 分别两个文件 复制到最外面TrekBuddy_Atlas_Creator_1[1].6.1目录下,不拿出来事没办法下载的。
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% }, @9 `9 Q1 n4 R' P答:..................... 忘记写了?解压出来啊不是说了。。。8 ~ [! u* [! m/ E/ r2 ?

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5 m Z$ W- d! e0 X问题:LZ能提供地图吗?
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答:我提供还不你自己去下的快,自带的软件会下载地图的6 P6 N. N6 y: n9 s

$ s& t1 U+ o6 p& P4 r问题:OH YE 成功装上 感谢ing& j4 z* O2 p* b% N6 Y4 R& O5 ^+ L9 b# V
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Thursday, February 4, 2010

How to Avoid “Firefighting” in Verification

Misstep #1: Insufficient planning

Insufficient planning occurs when you don’t have what you need to do testing, and your test coverage falls short. It’s caused by undocumented assumptions, the increasing scope of projects, and “missed dependencies” (you need 10 prototypes but only get 5). “If you don’t plan for it, it will surprise you, and every surprise will end up as a fire.”

The solution? Put your plan in writing – including who does what, how features work, what it means to be “done,” what checkpoints will monitor progress, and criteria for success. Keeping track of assumptions may be the biggest part of the solution. Write them down!

Misstep #2: Not designing for test

Designers often think their designs won’t have any mistakes, so there’s no plan for testing and no communication with validators. This makes it difficult to find and replicate bugs, to figure out what you need to monitor, and to know when you’re done. Interpreting test results as “pass” or “failure” may be very difficult. The antidote is for validators to get involved in the earliest stages of the design process. “Ask how you’re going to test it and how you’re going to tell if it’s working.”

Misstep #3: Not creating and integrating feedback loops

All too often, the marketing team or the design engineers make changes to a product, and don’t communicate those changes to the verification team. Further, many companies place engineers in “silos” with little or no communication – for example, there are software engineers, hardware engineers, and firmware engineers who don’t talk to each other.

What’s needed is continuous feedback about any changes in the product, as well as problems found with the product. Tests should be monitored for effectiveness and continually improved.

Misstep #4: Lack of transparency

Lack of transparency happens when you tell your boss (or team) that everything is well when it really isn’t. Or, you skimp on tests and coverage as schedule pressure rises, and don’t let managers know. As a result, risks and coverage gaps increase. “Tell the real story, and encourage others to do the same. Don’t declare that it’s done until it’s really done.”